Perennials

During the first growing season they focus on building a strong root system to anchor the plant and effectively absorb water/nutrients. They may produce some or minimal foliage above ground, and are unlikely to bloom during their first year. Generally, perennials will need two or three years before they reach full maturity and full bloom. The 3-year rule describing a perennial growth cycle of "Sleep" - "Creep" - "Leap," helps gardeners set realistic expectations to be patient and avoid frustration with new native plantings.

Biennials

Complete their life cycle in a two year period. During the first growing season, they develop a solid root system before growing stems, leaves, and food storage for the winter. In the second year, the plant will resume growth, flower, produce seed, and then die to complete its life cycle. The two year process ensures reproduction by establishing a strong root system and storing energy prior to its reproduction phase.

Annuals

Complete their life cycle in one growing season. They germinate, grow to full maturity, flower, produce seed, and then die. Annuals do not reliably reseed themselves, but they can in ideal conditions. Most gardeners reseed annuals each growing season for best results.

Each wildflower species has different sunlight preferences that they thrive in, and you can find that information on each native plant's profile on our NATIVE SEED page.

Wildflowers will be noted to prefer any of the three sun exposure descriptions below:

     ~Full Sun     =     6 or more hours of direct sunlight each day

     ~Partial Shade     =     4 - 6 hours of direct sunlight each day

     ~Full Shade     =     fewer than 4 hours of sun each day

Your goals for the native planting, the location, and the soil moisture will help determine which grass to forb ratio to plant. If you are enrolling in a CRP program, there may be a specific ratio that you will need to follow. Allendan Seed offers various inventory seed mixes in the following grass to forb ratios: 30/10, 20/20, 10/30, and 10/40. A 30/10 seed mix equates to 30 grass seeds and 10 wildflower seeds per square foot. Here are some things to consider when choosing which grass to forb ratio to plant:

~30/10 Seed Mix     75% Grass & Sedges   25% Forbs & Legumes

          -Well suited for wet soils or difficult areas such as floodplains

          -Recommended for erosion control or sloped areas

          -Competes and establishes better in high weed pressure areas

~20/20 Seed Mix     50% Grass & Sedges   50% Forbs & Legumes

          -Balanced for wildlife diversity by providing both cover and food sources

          -Well suited for dry, mesic, or wet-mesic soils

          -Preferred in low to medium weed pressure areas

~10/30 or 10/40 Seed Mix     25-20% Grass & Sedges   75-80% Forbs & Legumes

          -High forb diversity for pollinators and monarchs

          -Well suited for mesic to dry soils

          -Preferred in low weed pressure areas due to slower establishment

Choose a seeding rate that will be adequate to accomplish the goal of your native planting. At a minimum the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service recommends a seeding rate of 40 seeds per square foot. Allendan Seed mixes a majority of its inventory mixes at 40 seeds per square foot to meet their basic CRP requirement. We offer a few forb only inventory mixes under 40 seeds per square foot so they can be used to inter-seed into already established prairies. We offer some inventory mixes at 50 seeds per square foot for more diverse pollinator seed mixes, and we offer some specialty mixes at 60 seeds per square foot for smaller areas.

When broadcasting seed, it is recommended to use a minimum 60 seeds per square foot seeding rate to compensate for any uneven distribution or seed loss due to weather elements or predation. If your budget allows and you would like your native planting to get established quicker and fuller, we recommend using a seeding rate of 80 - 120 seeds per square foot in smaller areas. If your native planting is for erosion control or on a steep slope, we recommend using a seeding rate of 100 - 120 seeds per square foot.

As an example, if you have 1 acre of land and you wanted a seeding rate of 80 seeds per square foot, purchase 2 acres worth of a 40 seeds per square foot seed mix and plant it all in the 1 acre area. If you wanted to achieve a 120 seeds per square foot seeding rate, purchase 3 acres worth of a 40 seeds per square foot seed mix and plant it all in the 1 acre area.

We recommend planting wildflowers during the "Dormant Period" of December - March because it offers a cold-moist stratification period to occur before the first growing season to break the dormancy of many native wildflower species.

Spring planting in April - May is fine as well, and any native species that did not get stratified will sit dormant until the next growing season.

We do not recommend planting from early summer through mid-fall (June 15th - November 15th). 

It depends on if you are planting warm season or cool season grass.

Warm Season Grass:     (Bluestems, Sideoats, Switchgrass, Dropseeds)

     We recommend planting these in the Spring (April - June)

Cool Season Grass:     (Sedges, Wildryes, Junegrass, Bluegrass)

     We recommend planting these in the Dormant Period (December - March)

No. We do not pre-treat any of our seed before sale. Seeds would need to be planted immediately once they have been stratified, and it would be difficult to have them ready whenever orders are placed.

We recommend following the natural approach and have the seeds stratified outdoors by planting during the "Dormant Period" of December - March.

An "artificial" cold stratification in a fridge or freezer could potentially damage the seed, and we do not recommend it.   

For the best results, we recommend clearing all existing vegetation and getting the site down to bare dirt. Repeated herbicide treatments of RoundUp may be used to kill off the vegetation and reduce weeds in the seed bed.

Completing proper site preparation greatly reduces weed competition, which will result in better establishment and faster results. It is easier to put the extra time and effort into proper site preparation than to deal with overwhelming weed competition later on.

If Broadcasting: Loosen the top inch of soil before broadcasting.

No, native plants normally do not need fertilizer because they have adapted to the local soil and climate conditions of the specific geographic regions that they were found in. Adding fertilizer can potentially harm native plants, and promote the growth of other invasive weeds or vegetation. It is important to choose plants that are native to your area or well-suited to your existing soil type and conditions because they have evolved over thousands of years to those specific ecosystems that they naturally thrive in.

There are some different options that you can choose depending on the site terrain, size, time, and cost.

~Broadcasting (by hand):

          -Best option for smaller areas or areas with difficult terrain not accessible by larger equipment

~Broadcasting (mechanical):

          -Best option for medium sized and flatter areas

~Seed Drill:

          -Best option for larger areas and terrain accessible by medium to larger tractors

~Hydroseeding:

          -Best option for larger areas with difficult terrain like steep slopes

A higher seed rate is recommended for broadcast seeding to compensate for any uneven distribution or seed loss due to weather elements and predation. To help achieve a more even seed distribution, divide the planting area into two or more equal sections. The more sections you divide the area into, the more even your distribution will be. Divide your seed into equal parts in the same number of sections that you divided the planting area. This technique helps to prevent you from running out of seed by using one part of the seed per each divided section.

If soil is hard or compacted, loosen the top inch with a rake, harrow, cultipacker, aerator, etc. before broadcasting the seed on top of the soil. After seeding, gently pack down the soil with either your feet/hands, lawn roller, cultipacker, etc. to promote the best seed to soil contact. You can also lightly rake the seed into the soil, but remember to keep the seed very shallow and to not cover any deeper than 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Proper native seed to soil contact ensures the seed has access to moisture, nutrients, warmth, and sunlight.

If you do not have your own seed drill or know someone that does, many county conservation offices have seed drills available that you can rent. You will also need access to a medium or large sized tractor depending on the size of seed drill being used and the terrain. It is important to set the seed drill to a shallow depth of no deeper than 1/8 to 1/4 inch when planting native seed. Calibrate the drill's seeding rate a little lower than what you actually want, as drills can tend to seed higher in the field as it bounces along the ground and this will help prevent you from running out of seed. If you still have some seed left at the end, start to go over the area again until you run out. We always recommend checking the seed drill and the ground after planting 1/2 to 1 acre to make sure it is not planting too deep and if it needs any additional calibration.    

Do not expect your native planting to look great during the first year. Native grass and wildflowers grow slowly during the first 1 - 2 years, and focus their energy on establishing their root systems prior to any surface growth. Common weeds grow much faster since they are annuals and focus their energy on producing and dropping seed in order to survive. Have patience and give your natives time to establish themselves.

Scout your native planting for weed growth and pressure. Expect to mow 3 - 4 times from June - September, but the actual number of mowings will depend on rainfall, weed density, height, and weed species present. Mowing whenever the weeds reach "knee-high" (around 18 inches) will prevent the fast-growing weeds from dropping seed and from shading out the native seedlings. Mow vegetation to a height of 8 - 12 inches, and do not mow after September 15th to allow the natives to build up some energy reserves for the winter and to start strong next spring. Do not spray any herbicides on new native plantings, as the chemicals will kill wildflowers and can also kill or damage native grass seedlings.

You should plan to mow once to a height of 12 inches around July 1st or before weeds begin to flower, and then evaluate the native planting to see if additional mowing will be needed. Spot mowing can be utilized in areas where weed pressure is still strong or in patches of persistent weed species such as Marestail, Ragweed, or Thistles. By mid-July stop mowing, and your new establishment should show some of the natives coming up, but it will still have a weedy appearance.

Do not use herbicides for spot spraying problem areas until Year 3 of the native planting, so it does not kill or damage native seedlings. Marestail (Horseweed) is a biannual and it will often show up in the 2nd year, which it looks worse than it really is, but its growth pattern still allows light through to the native seedlings.

If there is enough plant duff/thatch to carry a fire, consider a prescribed burn between March 15th - April 15th. Prescribed burns are a useful tool for tall grass prairie ecosystems because they remove the plant debris and stimulate growth of new wildflowers and warm season grasses. Always use extreme caution when doing prescribed burns as they can burn very quickly and can be unpredictable. If you are not experienced, please do not perform a prescribed burn on your own because there are several organizations and companies that can provide the personnel/equipment to conduct burns safely.

If a prescribed burn is not an option, plan on mowing your native planting to a height of 6 inches and removing the plant duff/thatch in the early spring. If that plant debris layer is not removed, it could cause poor plant growth or possibly smother any newly emerging natives. You can spot treat any invasive or unwanted weeds as needed with spot mowing or particular herbicides depending on the weed species.

Evaluate your native planting on an annual basis going forward as additional native species continue to emerge from your seed planting. Consider a prescribed burn every 3 - 5 years to promote a healthy prairie, remove plant debris, and stimulate new growth to continue filling in any thin areas. Spot mowing or hand pulling on established prairies is preferred over chemical use for weed control due to some herbicides will also kill native wildflowers. If you wish to add diversity, additional wildflowers can be inter-seeded during the dormant period (December - March). 

Seeds are perishable, but most seed will last atleast 2 - 3 years if stored properly. Seed should be stored in a cool, dry, and rodent free place. Temperature and humidity are important factors, and a good rule of thumb is that the temperature plus relative humidity should not exceed 100. For example, a good storage area would be a place that can be consistently 60 degrees with 30% relative humidity because adding those two numbers is lower than 100. Humidity and moisture is the biggest thing that causes seed to deteriorate quickly so try to keep that as low as possible. Some species will store longer and remain viable for years and other species will begin to lose their viability faster.

Allendan Seed adds Parboiled Rice Hulls to the majority of our inventory seed mixes as inert material to reach a 10 lbs. an acre seeding rate. Parboiled Rice Hulls are a natural and renewable plant material used in a wide variety of applications that include potting material in the greenhouse and nursery industry. Parboiled Rice Hulls are subjected to a series of heat treatments that sterilize and render any residual rice kernels or other seed non-viable.

Your Allendan seed tag will note or reference if it has Parboiled Rice Hulls in it. You can request additional Parboiled Rice Hulls be added to your seed mix with additional cost if you prefer to have a heavier lbs. per acre seeding rate. If you wish to purchase an inventory mix without Parboiled Rice Hulls, it becomes a "Custom Seed Mix" and will generally cost more per acre than the inventory mix with the Parboiled Rice Hulls included.

We do not have a retail space or store for customers to shop in. If you know what you want to purchase, we prefer that you place your order through our website or over the phone, and we will notify you once it is ready for you to pick up. If you want to come in person to discuss or have questions about our native seed or plug options, we prefer that you call ahead so that we can make sure that there will be someone available to assist you. If after discussing in person you decide to purchase an inventory seed mix, you can expect to wait at a minimum 45 - 60 minutes for us to complete your order and that could be different depending on how busy the warehouse is. If you wish to order a custom seed mix, we usually ask for 24 - 48 hours depending on how big the mix is to complete. 

Our regular business hours are Monday - Friday, 8am - 5pm and closed on holidays.

Call 515-250-8995.

You should immediately open the box, and remove the plants. Place your tray of plants outside in a shaded area protected from direct sunlight or wind, such as a covered porch or alongside a building. If your plants are dry, then give them plenty of water so that the entire root ball is wet and is draining out of the tray.

Allow your plants to acclimate/adjust to the temperature and re-hydrate for 24 hours before planting. If you are unable to plant them shortly after the 24 hour period, keep them in the protected area and water them as needed until planted. Plants can dry out quickly while still in the plug tray. Weather permitting, we recommend that you transplant your plugs within 7 days of receiving your order.

There might be some damage to the plant leaves or stems, but native plants are resilient and will usually grow if they are treated with care after arrival. However, if your plants seemed to have experienced an unfortunately rough shipping experience and look badly damaged, take some photos with your phone for the record. Carefully make sure the plants are in the tray and have enough soil to sufficiently cover their roots. Water the plants and place them in a shaded area protected from the wind. Check your plants after 24 hours, and hopefully they will begin to look better and recover from the shipping experience. Consider possibly waiting 48 - 72 hours before transplanting any badly damaged plants to allow them some extra recovery time before stressing them again.

If heavily damaged plants do not survive, please contact Teresa in our greenhouse at 515-462-1241 ext. 1008, or by email teresa.frome@allendanseed.com with your order details, and photos if possible.

We do not have pictures of what our seed mixes would look like once established. The appearance of a seed mix would vary from one site to another, from one season to the next, and how the established prairie is being maintained.

We grow our individual species in rotating monocultures, and have pictures in each of their plant profiles on our Native Seed page.

Our inventory mixes can vary slightly within the same year or between years. Each of our inventory mixes are reviewed annually to assess any changes in production cost and the effectiveness of species in seed mixes that are created with particular goals or outcomes. Occasionally, species that were selected when creating an inventory mix may become unavailable due to crop failure or high demand. If there is a species unavailable, we will make a substitution that closely relates to the missing species and that would conform with the goals of the particular inventory mix.